Tuesday, September 30, 2014

Entry 186 - More Summer!


Another good session but shorter this morning. A little more glassy than yesterday. Caught 1 nice right and another nice left before having to paddle in for work. These Tuesday sessions are gonna be tough with having to do school drop off but I hope to be able to get in quick sessions here and there.


Weather: 68 deg, Sunny
Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Glassy, Clear
Waves Caught: 6
Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 70 deg

Monday, September 29, 2014

Entry 185 - Last Summer Blast?


What a session! Not a 7+ session, but still a good one. Nice waves and warm water. Hoping that it sticks around for another month or two before the sea gets cold again. Caught some nice rights but mainly short rides due to the Porto closeouts. Good start to the week!


Weather: 70 deg, Sunny
Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Glassy, Clear
Waves Caught: 18
Sea Life: Dolphin (2)
Sea Temp: 70 deg

Thursday, September 25, 2014

Entry 184 - Swampy Backwash


Swampy backwash on tap today even though Surfline gave Porto a green! Never trust the surf report. Got out there anyway and caught some nice short stuff while trying to avoid getting smacked in the face by the backwash as I was paddling into a set. Still, warm, summer water makes all the difference.


Weather: 72 deg, Sunny
Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Bumpy, Swampy, Backwash
Waves Caught: 7
Sea Life: Dolphin (3)
Sea Temp: 71 deg

Monday, September 22, 2014

Entry 183 - Flock of SUPs


Bumpy, semi-weak waves today with fun little sections. Enjoyed a couple of nice longish rights. Shape wasn't anything amazing but still lots of fun. Gotta get my fix on the morning routine before winter rolls around and the northwest swell brings the water temperature back into the low 60s. I'll take what I can get.


Weather: 67 deg, Sunny
Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Bumpy, Closeouts
Waves Caught: 9
Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 71 deg

Saturday, September 20, 2014

Entry 182 - Back to Porto


Back to Porto after Maui and was held off for the past week by yet another hurricane draining the South Bay and creating crazy backwash and weird conditions. This morning was a little back to normal and while the surf was bigger than I have been used to I got out there on the Brog and had a good time. Caught 1 really nice right that I might have been able to barrel but I was just happy with a long ride. Good to be back in the South Bay.


Weather: 67 deg, Cloudy
Conditions: Chest to Shoulder Plus High, Walled, Closeouts
Waves Caught: 3
Sea Life: Dolphin (3)
Sea Temp: 72 deg

Monday, September 8, 2014

Entry 181 - Warm Hawaiian Waters


Day 2 of our 7 day trip to Maui (part 2). Surfing again this morning and the water was warm as ever. First time surfing Launiupoko and it was fun with long rides even with the ankle to knee conditions. Every once in a while a plus size set would come through which made for a little more fun. Lots of rights here. I'm gonna hate leaving.


Weather: 83 deg, Sunny
Conditions: Ankle to Knee Plus High, Soft, Weak
Waves Caught: 6
Sea Life: Tropical Fish
Sea Temp: 79 deg


Sunday, September 7, 2014

Entry 180 - Maui Part Deux


Yay, back in Maui! Yep, had to come here for work so also had to go surfing. Wife got out with me today at Puamana Beach. Small, soft stuff with long waits but still fun. The longer rides were a nice change from Porto, of course. And the water, man, I love the warm waters of Hawaii!


Weather: 83 deg, Sunny
Conditions: Ankle to Knee High, Soft, Weak
Waves Caught: 6
Sea Life: Tropical Fish
Sea Temp: 79 deg


Tuesday, September 2, 2014

Entry 179 - Sandbar


Low tide plus sand bar from Marie make Porto less fun. Lots of closeouts and walls today. Caught one steep ride that ended with the tail of my board getting shot up from under me after the wave closed out of the sandbar. Still, it was a nice right while it lasted! ;)


Weather: 73 deg, Sunny
Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Dumpy, Closeouts
Waves Caught: 4
Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 71 deg

Monday, September 1, 2014

Entry 178 - Labor Day Session


Swampy and dumpy is all I can say. Not much out there this morning to ride and more like the typically fast El Porto that I know. Still got in a a couple of nice lefts and rights in a short Labor Day session. Wish it could have lasted longer but I'm just glad I could get out. Happy Labor Day!


Weather: 69 deg, Sunny
Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Dumpy, Swampy
Waves Caught: 7
Sea Life: Dolphin (6)
Sea Temp: 71 deg