Entry 280 - So Close!

Manhattan Beach had some sort of run going on today and I guess with the surf being so crappy this past week everyone and their brother needed to get out this morning. El Porto parking lot was packed at 7am so I had to park at the corner lot and go for a walk.

Surf was really fun this morning with some good shape every once in a while but mostly walled up stuff and long waits. I ended up catching 2 unforgettable rights, the second of which broken right at my head! If I had only ducked down a little bit it would have been a barrel!!! Maybe next time.

Weather: 64 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Glassy, Walled Up, Waist to Shoulder High, Crowded

Waves Caught: 6+

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 73 deg

SurfExplorer has been down - WTF!

Entry 148 - Almost A Barrel?

Paddled out today after a long (3-day?) break. Stopped by yesterday but everything just looked small and hard to catch. Today looked better though. Crumbly stuff but there were bigger sets if you were patient. I was all about finding the rights today and I caught 3 of them. The last ride I caught was amazing and got me so stoked I almost hated to go in. Beautiful right about chest high that I dropped in on at just the right moment, could almost touch the wall, and felt the barrel behind me. Slowed down just a bit and I could swear that I was soooo close! Had to get out while I was ahead.

Weather: 66 deg, Cloudy

Conditions: Knee to Chest High, Inconsistent, Crumbly, Glassy, Clean

Waves Caught: 4

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 68 deg