Entry 221 - Bumpy!

Had to get out and just didn't care that it was bumpy and dumpy. Paddling was nutty and only ended up catching one good one to call it a session. Note to self - when it's bumpy, don't bother.

Weather: 62 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Knee to Shoulder High, Bumpy, Dumpy

Waves Caught: 1

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 63 deg

Entry 189 - Not As Good As Yesterday

Not as good as yesterday but then again I might have been tired from Disneyland. Caught one, lone wave to end my session full of kids and Costco boards. Note to self, don't go to Hermosa on weekends to surf unless you want to teach someone.

Weather: 84 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Knee High, Bumpy, Clear, Closey-Outey

Waves Caught: 1

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 70 deg

Entry 176 - No Dice

Hurricane Marie is kicking up the swell but only closeouts and walls at Porto today. Malibu looks pretty awesome but I'll pass. Somebody died today when they probably shouldn't have been out in the water. Don't get me wrong, I'd love to be out there but I don't think I'm good enough for that and don't want to risk it. Marie should settle down by the weekend so I'm hoping to get back out then. In the meantime, I'll enjoy the videos!

Weather: 67 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Waist to Chest High, Glassy, Fun

Waves Caught: Nada

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 71 deg

Entry 118 - Broken Leash Strap

Was hoping that today would be like Tuesday but no luck. It was bumpy and choppy with weak, inconsistent sets. As always, still good to get out. Caught 1 okay left but that was about it before breaking the little strap on the board that holds the leash. Took it in after that.

Weather: 67 deg, Clear

Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Inconsistent, Choppy

Waves Caught: 1

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 61 deg

Entry 116 - Getting There?

Another potentially rideable day based on the forecast but once I got out there it was all closeouts and mixed up surf. Caught one left and then spent the rest of the time riding the strong crumbly break close to the beach. Water was cold but the air is warming up!

Weather: 64 deg, Clear

Conditions: Knee to Chest High, Inconsistent, Closeouts and Walls

Waves Caught: 2

Sea Life: Dolphin (1)
Sea Temp: 57 deg

Entry 114 - Laughable

No Pic Today

Got out there this morning and the tide paddled a lot. Not much to catch. A channel formed about 20 yds out and basically swamped everything that looked good. Everyone in the lineup was laughing about it. Every time something came in that looked good, it petered out to nothing and then walled up on the inside. Bleh, I'm sick of winter.

Weather: 63 deg, Clear

Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Glassy, Swamped

Waves Caught: Nothing

Sea Life: Dolphin (1)
Sea Temp: 61 deg

Entry 108 - Lot Full

There's a first time for everything and today was one of them. Porto parking lot at 7 AM was packed. Had to park in the lot up the hill and jog down. Surf was all mixed up on the inside and kinda mushy. Crazy crowded and not a lot to work with out there for me at least. Surf was weak at times with the occasional wall and closeout. The water even seemed to get colder as the session went on. Some guys got some good rides but I caught my one and called it a morning. When does summer start?!

Weather: 53 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Waist High, Bumpy, Mid Tide, Mixed Up

Waves Caught: 1

Sea Life: Dolphin (5)
Sea Temp: 58 deg

Entry 105 - Better But Flat

Finally at the tail end of my cold and the surf is flat. After sitting in the car for 20 minutes debating if it was worth it to paddle out, I bit the bullet and went. Eh, just ok. No energy and flat with little lines which had a tendency to wall up. Caught one short left and that was it. Did see a seal playing around near the shore though. Still, good to get out finally.

Weather: 58 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Knee High, Weak, Short, Textured

Waves Caught: 1

Sea Life: Seal (1)
Sea Temp: 59 deg

Entry 104 - Too Soon?

I've had a cold over the past week and a half and have been itching to get out. Being at the tail end of my cold I figured I'd give it a shot and paddle out. Mistake. Just didn't have the energy with the ultra high tide and the closeouts that just kept coming in. Good lesson though in what not to do. Maybe I'll be better tomorrow and get out for dawn patrol. For today, lesson-learned. Not every session can be perfect!

Weather: 48 deg, Foggy

Conditions: Chest to Head High, Closed Out, Deep Tide

Waves Caught: Nothing

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 59 deg

Entry 057 - Surfin' Po'ipu

In Kaua'i on vacation and grabbed on 8' soft top to catch a few waves at Po'ipu (south shore). Note to self - wearing a rashguard on an unwaxed soft top board is very slippery in the ocean. I should have gone with a performance board and waxed it up but I only had about an hour and a half to get a session in before dinner. The surf around Po'ipu was choppy, windy, and mixed up. Some of the locals said that further west things would be a little better but I didn't see that as me and the family were driving the past few days. Pretty easy paddle out to an okay left by an exposed reef and caught a nice short ride within the first 10 minutes. After that, no dice. Like I said, the surf was choppy and also weak. Still, well worth it to say I surfed in Kaua'i.

Weather: 82 deg, Patchy Clouds

Conditions: Choppy, Knee-Waist High, Mushy, Windy

Waves Caught: 3

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 80 deg (and why I'd move to Hawaii!)

Entry 046 - Unexpectedly Cold and Strong

"I was not expecting it to be this cold!" - The first words out of my mouth as I paddled out.  What happened to summer today?  Strong southwest swell also made things interesting.  Head high surf with a strong longshore current made it not so great for the 9' Stewart today.  That, and I broke the GoPro clip (no big deal, I have another one).  Overall the steep and sometime walled up surf made for a less than delightful session today.  Oh well, still good to get out.

Weather: 64 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Textured, Chest-Head+ High, Strong Longshore Current

Waves Caught: 3

Sea Life: Dolphins (3)
Sea Temp: 66 deg

Entry 032 - No Booties

Yep, no booties today! The water was nice and warm but the surf was just okay. All mixed up, confused, and steep when a set did come through. I'm hoping tomorrow is better. Nothing else to say really, board repaired and lookin' for something good.

Weather: 62 deg, Mostly Sunny

Conditions: Glassy, Warm, Steep, Mixed

Waves Caught: 3

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 65 deg

Where's my Surf Explorer??!!!  Server down today!

Entry 003 - Bummer

Not really worth it this morning but good to get out.  There's something spiritually cleansing about the ocean.  Didn't catch really anything but saw plenty of dolphin.  Everyone else was having the same troubles I was... it was either too choppy and small or walled off when the sets came in.  Better luck next time.

Weather: 56 deg, Foggy Going to Clear Skies

Conditions: Bumpy, Walled

Waves Caught: 1

Sea Life: Dolphins (5)
Sea Temp: 57 deg

Entry 002 - Too Soft

Made it out after traveling this week.  Glad to be on the water but the surf was soft with long periods in between.  Paddled into a few but couldn't get the speed.  I wasn't the only one either.  Seemed to be a lot of frustration out there today.  But, those who caught a wave got a nice ride.   I'll try again on Sunday.  Should be much better energy in the waves and a little more height!

Weather: 62 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Semi-Glassy, Small, Soft

Waves Caught: 1

Sea Life: Dolphins (1)
Sea Temp: 55 deg