Entry 144 - Getting The Hang Of The Egg

I think I'm finally getting the hang of the Egg with my Stewart in the shop for repairs. SSW swell just missing the South Bay made for small, weak surf which made me practice more on my paddling and pop-up on the skinnier Egg. Still fun but I wish the surf wad been just a little bigger. Caught myself a few times not taking a nice left or right because I'm so used to the 9' Stewart. The couple of times I said to myself "just go", I was rewarded with a nice ride.

Weather: 63 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Inconsistent, Crumbly, Glassy

Waves Caught: 5

Sea Life: Dolphin (1), White Shark (1)
Sea Temp: 66 deg

Entry 142 - Overcast

Got out for dawn patrol even though everything looked pretty weak and crumbly. Caught a bunch of short stuff and one nice long left. Nice start to the weekend and looking forward to Hawaii this year. Warm water, more consistent surf, what more could you ask for. Hoping Monday is a little better at Porto.

Weather: 63 deg, Overcast

Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Small, Inconsistent, Crumbly

Waves Caught: 4

Sea Life: White Shark (1)
Sea Temp: 66 deg

Entry 141 - Looked Good

Looked good on the camera. Looked good from the parking lot. Was good for about 20 minutes and then turned bumpy and got close to choppy. Still searching for the nice right but caught 2 okay lefts and a short right. Rest of the time I spent paddling in the chop. Water was warm though!

In the parking lot about to leave when me and a few guys saw two lifeguards rescue two guys from a heck of a rip current around where I paddled in. No wonder I was tired. 

Weather: 74 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Bumpy, Inconsistent, Crumbly

Waves Caught: 4

Sea Life: White Shark (1)
Sea Temp: 66 deg

Entry 131 - More Fun

Starting to cool down today. Headed out a little later and the sand bar at 42nd was still hopping. It's been a good spot these past few days and with the swell starting to come more from the SSW, the sets were a little better than the last two days. Fun stuff. A couple of nice long lefts and rights today on a short session that I wish would have lasted another hour or two. Looking forward to what Saturday's dawn patrol brings with the low tide being around -1ft.

Here's to summer!!!

Weather: 76 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Glassy, Crumbly

Waves Caught: 7

Sea Life: White Shark (1)
Sea Temp: 62 deg

Entry 130 - What Lurks Beneath

More heat today so I got out early to find the 6' white shark lurking just 10' away from me under the water. Makes you feel alive. Then the lineup was blessed with at least 7 dolphin jumping and playing in the water within 5-10' of everyone. I swear, I could have reached out and touched them. I really think they were trying to play with us! Ride of the day was a nice long (10+ sec) left that I rode as far into the shore as I could get. What a start to almost the weekend!

Weather: 74 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Ankle to Waist High, Glassy, Crumbly

Waves Caught: 5

Sea Life: Dolphin (7, arms reach), White Shark (1)
Sea Temp: 62 deg

Entry 124 - Cold!?

Beautiful day today and warm! Not for the water! It was definitely below 60 in the water. Just not sure how much. I'm going with 59 deg. The surf report says it's 62 deg but I think that's the buoy reading outside the bay. Pretty inconsistent just after a -0.3 ft low tide with small stuff maybe reaching to the waist. Fun though and not too crowded. Plenty of dolphin the water too and pretty close (in between surfers) to the lineup. Saw the 6 ft great white's shadow in the water today. Let's see what dawn patrol brings tomorrow.

Weather: 72 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Glassy, Inconsistent, Cold, Clean

Waves Caught: 4

Sea Life: Dolphin (6), White Shark (1)
Sea Temp: 59 deg

Entry 117 - Beautiful Day

What a gorgeous day for a surf session! Needed the personal time and the weather and surf cooperated. While I didn't catch a lot, the water and warm air just made my day. Caught a nice right to start and then two okay left to finish it off with some slop in between. Man, it felt like summer today and I can't wait for more days like today. Here's hoping tomorrow is just as good!

Weather: 81 deg, Clear

Conditions: Knee to Chest High, Consistent, Glassy, Fun, Slightly Closed Out at Times

Waves Caught: 4

Sea Life: White Shark (1, spotted by surfer close to me)
Sea Temp: 61 deg

Entry 100 - New Board and Swampy

Yep, first time out on the new 8' Egg from Brog and didn't catch a single thing (except if you count a slight stand-up at one point. It wasn't the board, though it's going to take some getting use to, it was the swampy high tide and inconsistent surf. There were long lulls and then big closeouts that just came in and didn't leave anything to practice on. The short boarders were getting a few but overall everyone was paddling a lot.

So, the new board is definitely skinnier than the Stewart and looser. I can't wait to catch something good with it. For now, I'm looking forward to a rest from all the paddling. I just know I'm gonna feel sore today.

Last but not least, apparently the great white was out today and he breached two times. I didn't see it but I heard it from the guys in the parking lot. Yikes!

Weather: 42 deg, Mostly Clear Skies

Conditions: Waist to Shoulder High, Bumpy, Swamped, Closey-outy

Waves Caught: Big Zero

Sea Life: Dolphin (1), White Shark (1)
Sea Temp: 57 deg

Entry 083 - Small and Mushy

Beautiful this morning but the surf was a bit crappy - small, mushy, and inconsistent. I was hoping for better but I'll take what I can get on a Monday morning before work. Caught 2 decent knee-thigh high rights that I was able to ride down the line. Was also cut off by a shortboarder paddling a foot from me - probably just competitive but I was out to have fun, he could have it. Also saw the silhouette of a 5' shark under the water out there - I've heard someone spotted a mako shark so I'm not sure if it was a mako or the juvenile white shark. Either way - he didn't bother me, so  I wasn't going to bother him.

Weather: 61 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Clear, Mushy, Bumpy, Knee to Thigh High Plus

Waves Caught: 6

Sea Life: White Shark (1)
Sea Temp: 65 deg

Entry 067 - Small Again

No Pic Today

Very small today. Headed out right at low tide and caught a couple of short rides. I was surprised at how many folks were out considering the conditions. But, then again, it was mostly longboarders with a few shortboarders on the inside. Even though it was small and mushy, I still had a good time and caught a nice right that had me doing a few small S-turns. Maybe head out tomorrow a little earlier to see if things get any better.

Weather: 64 deg, Party Cloudy

Conditions: Clean, Ankle to Waist High, Mushy, Inconsistent

Waves Caught: 7

Sea Life: White Shark (Apparently)
Sea Temp: 64 deg

Entry 052 - Shark, Really

Highlight of today's session - 5 to 6 ft juvenile white shark spotted about 20 yards from me and another surfer. He/she was skimming along the top of the water where you could easily make out it's dorsal and tail fins. Even creepier was that I saw it a few minutes later as a shadow under the water  - still 20+ yards away. Other than that excitement, the surf was just so-so. Weak overall but I caught two nice rights.

Weather: 66 deg, Partly Cloudy

Conditions: Textured, Knee-Waist High, Corners, Weak

Waves Caught: 7

Sea Life: Reef Shark (1, 5-6')
Sea Temp: 69 deg