Entry 078 - Kamikaze Seagull

Paddled out and was sitting in the lineup when a lone surfer on the outside almost got hit in the face by a seagull headed straight for him. He waved it off like he was swatting at a fly. Hilarious! Surf was a bit steep today but manageable. The surf report called for chest high surf and it definitely was but the high tide helped. Lots of closeouts in general and the paddle out was a workout. Had fun and enjoyed my first taste of fall surf and bigger swells. Still lookin' for the new board but I'm able to make due with the Stewart - I'm learning.

Weather: 63 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Glassy, Steep, Closeouts

Waves Caught: 5

Sea Life: Sand Shark (1)
Sea Temp: 67 deg

Entry 073 - Last Days of Summer

Photo compliments of Swell Magnet El Porto Cam

A little smaller today and more fun than yesterday even though the crowds were out in force. Got some really nice lefts that I could ride all the way in. The lineup was much friendlier today than yesterday too. The shortboarders were still out there but with more longboarders and it being the weekend I think everyone was more relaxed and taking their time. Best wave of the day was a chest high one that I almost had but my board slipped out from under me - darnit!

Weather: 67 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Glassy, Crowded, Knee to Chest High, Cold Spots

Waves Caught: 10

Sea Life: Sand Shark (1)
Sea Temp: 68 deg

Entry 024 - Sand Sharks

No gloves today!  First chance to get out after the rain the past few days and it was only mildly worth it.  From the shore it all looked flat and kinda mushy and, expect for the occasional waist high plus set, that was pretty much true once I got in.  Still fun though with the very small crowd that was at 45th St. As you can see, on one of the waves I caught I decided that it was nap time and took a pretty good smack on my neck.  All was well though and on the next set I made up for it with a nice 10 second ride.  Oh, and I forgot to mention, sand sharks still freak me out sometimes when I step on them on the way in - like today.

Weather: 63 deg, Partly Cloudy Skies

Conditions: Slightly Bumpy, Inconsistent, Kinda Mushy, Small Crowd

Waves Caught: 10

Sea Life: Sand Sharks (1)
Sea Temp: 62 deg