Entry 331 - Back on the Horse

Saturday look pretty bad from the cameras but today looked better so I headed out to find some surf. I was pleasantly surprised. While the lulls were long and the shape only so-so, it was still a lot of fun!

On the GoPro front, not impressed with the perspective I get from the mouth mount for the GoPro. Better with the surfboard mount or wrist mount.

Weather: 64 deg, Partly Cloudy

Conditions: Waist High, Glassy, Fun

Waves Caught: 12

Sea Life: Dolphin (2)
Sea Temp: 70 deg

Entry 330 - End of Perfect Week

Nope, didn't make it out for an 8th day straight. July 4th just didn't look good in the water and, from what I heard, I was right to stay away. Not much swell and crowded. Today was a good day though. Good size, warm water.

Weather: 64 deg, Partly Cloudy

Conditions: Waist to Chest High, Bumpy, Fun

Waves Caught: 4

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 70 deg

Entry 324 - Day 2 (GoPro)

Decided to bring the GoPro out with the mouth mount today. Looked like I was going to be able to get a lot of good shots. Turns out the mouth mount just doesn't give me the shots that I'm looking for. Maybe I'm not facing the right direction or maybe the mount just doesn't work like I hoped. Swell is a little bigger and steeper today.

Weather: 64 deg, Cloudy

Conditions: Waist to Chest High, Bumpy, Fun

Waves Caught: 4

Sea Life: Dolphin (2)
Sea Temp: 68 deg

Entry 321 - Cold Trunks

No Pic Today

Southwest swell has been showing most of the week and I wanted to get out after my trip to the east coast for work. Easy paddle out but the surf was a bit walled up at times. I took my time and caught my one beauty for the session. No complaints.

Wore my trunks again and regretted it. With it being overcast, it was just too cold.

Weather: 60 deg, Overcast

Conditions: Chest to Head High, Bumpy, Thick, Dumpy

Waves Caught: 1

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 65 deg

Entry 317 - Getting Warmer

Water is consistently warming up. Just the need sun to start peaking out in the mornings to warm up the air. Good pre-work surf session with corners. Need to get back into updating this blog more often.

Weather: 65 deg, Overcast

Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Glassy, Fun

Waves Caught: 6

Sea Life: Dolphin (2)
Sea Temp: 64 deg

Entry 312 - Day Before Memorial Day

Got out today around 11 AM to go for a Sunday surf session. There weren't a lot of people out today, surprisingly. But those that were out there obviously don't go out much. It was a little crazy in the lineup. Caught a half dozen and called it a session.

Weather: 70 deg, Partly Cloudy

Conditions: Small, Fun, Crowded, Kooks

Waves Caught: 6

Sea Life: Dolphin (12+)
Sea Temp: 62 deg

SurfExplorer is down, AGAIN!

Entry 311 - Small

Small stuff today but beautiful weather! Caught more than my fair share on the new board and feeling the stoke for summer!

Weather: 65 deg, Cloudy

Conditions: Small, Bumpy

Waves Caught: 6

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 62 deg

SurfExplorer is down, AGAIN!

Entry 308 - New Board

Not much to talk about on this one EXCEPT I think this was the first session on my new Redline II! Pretty small but probably fun. I do remember the feeling of the new board as I trying walking to the nose - very stable and stiff. I likey! With SurfExplorer down once again, I haven't been able to record much.

Weather: 58 deg, Cloudy

Conditions: Small, Bumpy

Waves Caught: 6

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 60 deg

SurfExplorer is down, AGAIN!

Entry 307 - Let's Make It 4

No Pic Today

Let's make it 4 days in a row! Only so, so today but better than yesterday. Summer is on its way and I'm looking forward to putting on my trunks!

Weather: 58 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Bumpy, Small

Waves Caught: 4

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 60 deg

Entry 306 - 1st Board Meeting

Hopefully the 1st of many board meetings to happen this summer! Surf was just ok. Not a lot to ride and pretty mixed up.

Weather: 58 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Mixed, Knee to Waist High, Bumpy

Waves Caught: 2

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 58 deg

Entry 305 - Day 2 of a 3 Day Stretch

Day 2 of a 3 day stretch coming up and the surf was lots of fun, if I remember right. Caught a heck of a right (pic above) that probably could have barreled but I dove into it instead. Have't waxed the new board yet but can't wait to try it out! 

Weather: 60 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Fun, Knee to Waist High, Clean,

Waves Caught: 6

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 60 deg

Entry 304 - Getting to be Summer

No Pic Today

Getting to be summertime and I'm still catching up on this blog.

Weather: 58 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Fun, Knee to Waist High, Clean, Long Waits

Waves Caught: 4 (but really can't remember)

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 60 deg


SurfExplorer is down, AGAIN!

Entry 301 - Two Days in a Row

Got out again this morning. Lucky! Surf wasn't as good as it was yesterday though. Still caught a few lefts and a right to call it a session before work. What the hell is wrong with me and why can't I find my stoke lately? Maybe it's just been too long.

Weather: 58 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Fun, Knee to Waist High, Clean, Long Waits

Waves Caught: 4

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 60 deg but couldn't tell with the new suit

Entry 299 - New Wetsuit

Got a new wetsuit - 3/2 Body Glove VaporX! Really warm and a bitch to get off the first time. Surf today was finally manageable after about 2 weeks of crazy at El Porto. Long paddle out for not a lot of good waves. The ones I got were pretty lucky and came only every 10 minutes or so. Best wave of the day was one that popped up and I was able to carve the face a little on the way down. Too bad Porto was such a short wave today.

Weather: 58 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Fun, Knee to Waist High, Dirty, Long Waits

Waves Caught: 4

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 61 deg

SurfExplorer is down... AGAIN!

Entry 295 - Still Cold

I guess once a week isn 't too bad for winter sessions although I'd like it to be more like 3-4 times a week. But, it's not summertime and it's hard to get motivated to jump into cold water and feel a cold breeze after a session. Only a so, so session today. Caught a handful of fun ones and then had to head into the office. The king tides have really dug up a channel at Porto making it a little swampy to surf at and the backwash got pretty crazy as the tide went down. The pic above shows the outgoing tide meeting the incoming waves.. the splash is at least 10-15ft high.

Weather: 54 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Glassy, Fun, Waist to Shoulder High

Waves Caught: 4

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 58 deg

Entry 289 - Too Long

So I'm posting this about a month after I actually had the session. It's been too crazy with moving, getting sick on Thanksgiving, and work (ugh). Good news is I'm finally back to the blog. Bad news is I kinda forgot how good of a day it was that day, so I'm guessing a little. I think it was pretty flat and I only caught a few. The water was warm though and clear - I do remember that. Not like it was in October but I'll take what I can get.

Weather: 64 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Glassy, Fun, Knee to Waist High

Waves Caught: 4

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 65 deg

Switch it up with a new app for now until SurfExplorer comes back online!

Entry 285 - Not As Much Fun As Yesterday

Brought the GoPro back out for another session. Gotta get a new floaty for the back - my current one keeps coming off in the big stuff. Not as much fun as yesterday and mostly lefts. Still good to get out 2 days in a row.

Weather: 71 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Glassy, Fun, Waist to Chest High, Walled Up

Waves Caught: 5

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 73 deg

Again, WTF SurfExplorer!!

Entry 282 - Mid-Week

Looked at the camera this morning and just had to get out considering it looks like the weekend is gonna be big and closed out at Porto. One of these days I need to get up to Malibu or surf PV Cove. I'm just a creature of habit though and really enjoy Porto's convenience.

Surf today wasn't as great as Monday. Longer waits and smaller surf. Water is still warm!!

Weather: 67 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Glassy, Fun, Knee to Thigh High

Waves Caught: 5

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 73 deg

SurfExplorer has been down - WTF!

Entry 276 - Hot!

Hot, hot, hot. Freakin' 81deg when I got out of the water at 9am today to head to work. Was sweating by the time I finished getting dressed. One of those rare sessions when I wished the water wasn't so warm. Good surf today and a little better than yesterday. Caught lots or rights and lefts but nothing too long. Working on the carve.

Weather: 81 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Glassy, Clear, Dumpy, Waist to Shoulder High, Crowded

Waves Caught: 7+

Sea Life: Dolphin (8)
Sea Temp: 73 deg

Entry 275 - Get In While You Can

Gotta get in while I can this week because the next two weeks are gonna suck at work. All day big meetings next week and then East Coast travel the next (bleh). Water was awesome today! Clear, warm, and not to dumpy. Not much size but getting out during the week is a blessing.

Weather: 72 deg, Hazy

Conditions: Glassy, Clear, Dumpy, Knee to Waist High

Waves Caught: 4+

Sea Life: Dolphin (4)
Sea Temp: 73 deg