Entry 207 - Flat Thanksgiving

Got out for the, hopefully, annual Thanksgiving session to some nice knee to thigh high stuff to start. Then low tide hit and the ocean became a lake with ankle biters rolling in every 10 to 15 minutes. Water was nice and warm and so was the air temperature. Hard to believe it's Thanksgiving! I've got a lot to be thankful for!

Weather: 60 deg, Clear

Conditions: Knee to Thigh High, Glassy, Fun

Waves Caught: 8

Sea Life: Seal (1)
Sea Temp: 66 deg

Entry 206 - Sharing with Dolphin

Yep, that's a dolphin on my wave in the left left of the picture. Two to be exact. What an ultra-fantastic day to surf. Sure, it was on the small side but the water was crystal clear and there were so many dolphin I lost count at 12. Lots of fun rideable stuff, warm water, and warm air. Is it really Thanksgiving!

Weather: 60 deg, Clear

Conditions: Knee to Chest High, Glassy, Super Clear, Fun

Waves Caught: 12

Sea Life: Dolphin (12+), Seal (1)
Sea Temp: 66 deg

Entry 205 - Funday

Kinda like yesterday but a lot more fun. Sets were slightly bigger but still soft making for nice rides where I could stay high on the wave. Breeze a little more stiff and chillier but I didn't mind. Just a quick 40 min session before I had to get into another day at the office.

Weather: 63 deg, Clear

Conditions: Knee to Chest High, Textured, Light Breeze

Waves Caught: 5

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 67 deg

Entry 204 - Mondays

I really do kinda hate Mondays. All the staff meetings and running back-and-forth can get a little obnoxious. By the end of the day I end up forgetting anything I might have accomplished. I guess that's why I love Monday morning surf sessions. At least I have a few waves to start off the week.

Weather: 63 deg, Clear

Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Textured, Light Breeze

Waves Caught: 8

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 67 deg

Entry 203 - Washtub

Ever paddled out and notice that you need to start digging deeper because it looks like a wall is gonna come crashing down on you. Well, it happened to me today and I was in the perfect position for that nice what looked like head high plus wave to slam down on me. All I could tell myself was dive deep and relax. I don't normally ditch my board anymore but there was nothing I could do this time. It cleared the lineup.

Obviously dawn patrol was anything but small and weak from the looks of the cam.

Weather: 56 deg, Clear

Conditions: Waist to Shoulder High Plus, Closey-Outey, Crowded

Waves Caught: 5

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 67 deg

Entry 202 - Lefts and Closeouts

Was hoping it was going to be bigger today and I wasn't disappointed - although the sets were mostly closeouts and the crowd was nuts! Lots a fun fast lefts but very few rights today. Everybody wanted to go left. Saw the Saturday crew in the water and tried to stay away from the agro group that was crowding around 42nd St. Let's hope I can get out tomorrow too!

Weather: 63 deg, Cloudy

Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Closey-Outey, Crowded, Fun

Waves Caught: 8

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 68 deg

Entry 201 - Getting' Cooler

Still cooling down and I could feel it. Got in for a short session before work today and was only slightly rewarded with a couple short rides. Nothing to write home about but still worth getting out there. Tomorrow should be more fun I hope but with Veteran's Day it might be more crowded.

Weather: 63 deg, Cloudy

Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Textured, Crumbly

Waves Caught: 5

Sea Life: Seal (1)
Sea Temp: 68 deg

Entry 200 - Starting to Cool

Yep, starting to cool off a bit. Though the air temperature is still well into the 60s in the morning, the water temp is starting to drop signaling wintertime. It's still crazy warm though. Surf this morning was nice. Given my travels over the past week, it was a perfect way to get back into the SoCal groove. Beautiful morning and so-so weak surf.

Weather: 66 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Crumbly, Fun, Glassy

Waves Caught: 8

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 69 deg

Entry 199 - San O' Day 2

As my wife said when we got down to the beach, "What a difference a day makes!" It was a beautiful morning with no crowd and 3-4 footers that were crumbly but fun. Caught one nice long 40 second ride that I'll never forget! Rides that that make me want to come back to San O' every weekend.

Weather: 66 deg, Mostly Sunny

Conditions: Waist to Chest High, Fun, Glassy

Waves Caught: 7

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 71 deg

Entry 198 - Victory at Sea!

Headed to San Onofre for the night with the family. Got off to a rough start in the morning with my car having to go back into the shop after being there on Thursday already. By the time we got down to San O' the wind the blowin' pretty good and it was chilly. Not the water though!!! It was 71 deg and just awesome to be in. Sure the waves looked like something out of a WWII flick but it was still worth it.

Weather: 64 deg, Cloudy and Rainy

Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Choppy, Crumbly

Waves Caught: 4

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 71 deg