Entry 272 - Mixed Up Saturday

Woke up late this morning from a pretty heavy sleep and was groggy on the way to Porto. When I got there I was afraid the surf was going to be too walled up and not much fun but as it turned out, the walls had somewhat subsided from yesterday and gave way to some nice shape every once in a while. Paddled out among friends and caught my fair share including one nice right that I could have ridden forever if the other end hadn't closed out on me.

Weather: 71 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Glassy, Clear, Dumpy, Knee to Chest High, Fun

Waves Caught: 6

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 73 deg

Entry 271 - Swell Is Here

Well, the swell came in and it was very dumpy and walled up at Porto since the sand bars have all pretty much washed away and the bottom is smooth. Fun though. Been months since I've surfed in a good swell. Only got out for 30 min though which proved to be enough since everyone was looking for me when I got out.

Weather: 75 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Glassy, Clear, Walled Up, Waist to Shoulder High, Fun

Waves Caught: 6

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 73 deg

Entry 270 - Swell Coming

A Wednesday morning, pre-work surf session. Schools are starting back up today and we dropped out daughter off for 1st grade - man, they grow up fast. Surf was small but there's a swell coming in toward Friday. Always good to be in the water during the week.

Weather: 71 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Glassy, Clear, Knee to Waist High, Fun

Waves Caught: 6

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 73 deg

Entry 269 - Turn Quicker

While it wasn't as nice as Thursday, I could feel the southern swell building. Sets were consistently waist high and toward the end of the session, two waves popped up that were head high. One of them took me out (pic above) as I tried to decide whether to take it or not. Bruised thigh and forearm to show for it. All in all a good session among good friends.

Weather: 68 deg, Cloudy

Conditions: Bumpy, Clear, Knee to Chest High, Fun

Waves Caught: 14

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 73 deg

Entry 268 - Another Decade

Another decade under my belt and what a better way to start a new one than with a great surf session! The surf was only waist high at best but the shape was great and the crowd was really fun. Lots of rights and only the occasional left made it even better for me. I wish every session could be as good as this one... if not better.

Weather: 68 deg, Partly Cloudy

Conditions: Bumpy, Clear, Knee to Waist High, Good Shape, Fun

Waves Caught: 16

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 73 deg

Entry 267 - Reflecting

Bumpy and small today for a pre-work session on the week I turn the big 4-0. Sitting in the lineup reflecting and not coming up with much. Luck to have what I have but feeling unfulfilled in my career and home life is a struggle sometimes. Not sure what my life has meant over these past 40 years. Didn't think I would take it this hard. Gotta pull myself up and outta this and move one with the year... it's just a revolution around the sun and has very little to do with my real age anyway.

Surf was so, so today. Good to be in the warm water.

Weather: 67 deg, Cloudy

Conditions: Bumpy, Clear, Ankle to Knee High, Crumbly, Fun

Waves Caught: 6

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 73 deg

Entry 266 - Long Session

Back to school in the next two weeks for all the kiddies and the crowds were out in force for dawn patrol. Not much to talk about. The surf was small and weak. Had to do a quick leash loop repair on my board about 1/3rd of the way through my session but it didn't ruin my stoke. As mid-tide approached everything started to get swamped out and even smaller. I hope this week gets better and there some magic swell from somewhere but the surf report doesn't look that great. ;(

Weather: 73 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Glassy, Clear, Ankle to Knee High, Crumbly, Fun

Waves Caught: 16

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 73 deg

Entry 265 - Right of Way

No Pic Today

Dolphin always have the right of way in the surf. Almost fell off my board when two decided to drop in underneath me on a perfectly good right! I'm in their neighborhood and just glad they let me share. Not much else to speak of though. Good morning!

Weather: 71 deg, Clear

Conditions: Glassy, Clear, Knee to Waist High, Crumbly, Fun

Waves Caught: 2

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 72 deg

Entry 264 - Fun in the Sun

Grabbed a session before work since it looks like it's gonna be small the rest of the week. Long waits between sets but lots of fun waist high ones when they came in. Water is still nice and warm and the news is talking of El Nino this year. My stoke from this morning helped me get through the day.

Weather: 71 deg, Overcast

Conditions: Glassy, Clear, Knee to Waist High, Crumbly, Fun

Waves Caught: 6+

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 72 deg

Entry 263 - Work Break

Work is just no fun anymore - at least right now. I feel like it's a waste of my time lately and I haven't seen the fruits of my labors. I guess that's why I loved my surf session this morning. Warm water, fun waves, good crowd. I wish I could have surfed all day today but the wind started to pick up and as the tide started to come up and fill in, everything slowed down. Got into work... felt like I was talking to a brick wall... went to the coffee shop and did a little work from there. Glad the week is over!

Weather: 71 deg, Clear

Conditions: Glassy, Clear, Knee to Waist High, Dumpy, Fun, Crowded

Waves Caught: 10

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 71 deg

Entry 262 - Hump Day Session

Hump day pre-work session for me! Warm water and trunks too! Although it was a little bumpy and dumpy it was still fun. A few lefts and a right or two and called it a session. Gotta love summer!

Weather: 71 deg, Clear

Conditions: Bumpy, Knee to Waist High, Dumpy, Fun

Waves Caught: 6

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 71 deg

Entry 261 - Back to El Porto

Ho, hum.. back to LA and El Porto for dawn patrol. Decided to wear the 3/2 wetsuit for my first session back considering I had been in the nice 80+ degree water of the Hawaiian islands the past 2 weeks. Should have trunk'ed it. Water was warm and when the sun came out it felt like I was a turkey on Thanksgiving! Waves were only so so but I enjoyed the challenge more after the longer lulls and rides in Hawaii. Still wish I could have stayed in Maui for longer though!

Weather: 71 deg, Overcast

Conditions: Glassy, Knee to Waist High, Dumpy, Fun

Waves Caught: 11

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 70 deg