Entry 080 - Cold Sand, Warm Water

Just a beautiful, crisp morning today. After a jog across the cold sand - is it winter? - got out into the lineup tight at sunrise. Kinda steep today and closed out in spots but there were sections and corners to pick off in the crowd. Of the ones I caught, I was only able to the bottom turn in on about 1/3rd of them before they closed out. Still a fun morning. Gotta get that 7'10" or 8' board for winter.

Weather: 60 deg, Cloudy and Drizzle

Conditions: Steep, Clear, Glassy, Closey-Outey

Waves Caught: 11

Sea Life: Dolphin (2)
Sea Temp: 66 deg

Entry 079 - In-n-Out

Needed to get out again today to practice against some larger swell - at least I thought. It was warbly at best with the waves coming in and going out from the beach. Clean though and the water was warm. Longshore current coming from the north was pushing everything south. Had to catch a bunch of lefts to have any chance of getting back to my car without jogging. Caught once nice long left during the session which made it fun. One another one, guy decided he wanted to be on camera and flipped me the bird - he should've been more creative.

Weather: 64 deg, Cloudy and Drizzle

Conditions: Crumbly, Clean, Knee to Waist High

Waves Caught: 7

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 67 deg

Entry 078 - Kamikaze Seagull

Paddled out and was sitting in the lineup when a lone surfer on the outside almost got hit in the face by a seagull headed straight for him. He waved it off like he was swatting at a fly. Hilarious! Surf was a bit steep today but manageable. The surf report called for chest high surf and it definitely was but the high tide helped. Lots of closeouts in general and the paddle out was a workout. Had fun and enjoyed my first taste of fall surf and bigger swells. Still lookin' for the new board but I'm able to make due with the Stewart - I'm learning.

Weather: 63 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Glassy, Steep, Closeouts

Waves Caught: 5

Sea Life: Sand Shark (1)
Sea Temp: 67 deg