Paddled out today after a long (3-day?) break. Stopped by yesterday but everything just looked small and hard to catch. Today looked better though. Crumbly stuff but there were bigger sets if you were patient. I was all about finding the rights today and I caught 3 of them. The last ride I caught was amazing and got me so stoked I almost hated to go in. Beautiful right about chest high that I dropped in on at just the right moment, could almost touch the wall, and felt the barrel behind me. Slowed down just a bit and I could swear that I was soooo close! Had to get out while I was ahead.
Weather: 66 deg, Cloudy
Conditions: Knee to Chest High, Inconsistent, Crumbly, Glassy, Clean
Waves Caught: 4
Sea Life: NothingSea Temp: 68 deg
No comments:
Post a Comment