Saturday, July 6, 2013

Entry 050 - Nice and Warm



Not nearly as crowded as I was expecting today.  Nice and glassy but small; great for the longboard.  Paddled out and caught a short right and left before settling in and waiting for the next set.  Best ride of the day was a long right that I worked almost to the beach.  Final ride of the day was a little soft and I caught the peak and had a nice drop in.  Thought I saw that shark again today but learned otherwise.  Seems that there's been a juvenile dolphin in the waters the past week.  Notified the lifeguards but I don't think there is anything they can do.  Really sad.  Dumpy surf overall but with a few corners that paid off.

I think I'm now leaning toward a new board that's 7'6" or slightly longer that it'll let me dig in more.  Might not have helped out today but the Stewart rides a little high in the water.


Weather: 66 deg, Cloudy
Conditions: Glassy, Knee-Chest High, Dumpy
Waves Caught: 9
Sea Life: Dolphin (2, 1 Juvenile)
Sea Temp: 69 deg


Wednesday, July 3, 2013

Entry 049 - Pre-July 4th Surf


Yep, pre-July 4th surf today on a mushy small morning.  The groms were out in force though trying to catch anything and everything at Porto while hanging on the inside.  Kinda annoying but I still had a pretty good session. Caught two memorable waves that had some strength to them among the rest of the mushy surf.  Mostly, I was just happy to be in warmer water as compared to last week's frigid sessions.  July 4th isn't looking like a good day to go out but I think everything will pick back up over the weekend.


Weather: 64 deg, Cloudy
Conditions: Textured to Glassy, Knee-Chest High, Mushy
Waves Caught: 10
Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 66 deg

Monday, July 1, 2013

Entry 048 - Slammed


Beautiful glassy day and much warmer water.  It was mid-tide and and the strong southwest swell was still giving Porto energy.  Most the rides were short as the sets often came in walled up.  Got caught by one and crushed pretty good.  Ripped the board right out of my hands as I tried to avoid the onslaught of water by paddling for shore.  Legs got tangled in the leash too - not fun.  The longshore current got an "A" for effort too!  Definitely a tiring day for the longboard.


Weather: 65 deg, Party Cloudy
Conditions: Glassy, Waist-Shoulder High, Walled, Strong Longshore Current
Waves Caught: 6
Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 67 deg