Entry 103 - Finally

Getting the hang of the new board. Caught three so-so lefts today a midst the close outs and walls but, nonetheless, fun. The 8' Brog Egg is definitely looser than the 9' Stewart and requires me to pop up faster and know what to do next pretty quickly. I'm learning again which is great... just wish I could catch more. It'll take time, I know. Hopefully the weekend will be a good one!

Weather: 58 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Closed Out, Walled Up, Glassy

Waves Caught: 3

Sea Life: Seal (1)
Sea Temp: 59 deg

Entry 102 - Ah, Better...

First day in a while where the surf wasn't crazy big and walled! I was excited to get out and keep learning on the new board. Good surf overall with the mid-tide but it eventually just got too soft for me and I had to get back home. Friendly lineup and I caught one nice left that could have turned into something but I was riding it a bit too high. Still getting used to the board and finding my center. Good day to learn!

Weather: 45 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Waist to Chest High, Textured, Soft, Fun

Waves Caught: 1

Sea Life: Seal (1)
Sea Temp: 59 deg

Entry 101 - More Learning

Thought the surf was going to be manageable today and give me a chance to get some actual rides on the new 8' Egg. No luck. While the surf report said 2-3 ft faces yesterday, it was more like 4+ ft and walled up in most spots. The paddle out took time and the wind that blew in later in the session just made everything colder. I miss summer. Hopefully this Saturday will be better and I'll find some manageable surf to help me get used to the new board.

Weather: 55 deg, Slightly Foggy

Conditions: Shoulder to Head High, Textured, Walled Up

Waves Caught: Big Zero

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 58 deg

Entry 100 - New Board and Swampy

Yep, first time out on the new 8' Egg from Brog and didn't catch a single thing (except if you count a slight stand-up at one point. It wasn't the board, though it's going to take some getting use to, it was the swampy high tide and inconsistent surf. There were long lulls and then big closeouts that just came in and didn't leave anything to practice on. The short boarders were getting a few but overall everyone was paddling a lot.

So, the new board is definitely skinnier than the Stewart and looser. I can't wait to catch something good with it. For now, I'm looking forward to a rest from all the paddling. I just know I'm gonna feel sore today.

Last but not least, apparently the great white was out today and he breached two times. I didn't see it but I heard it from the guys in the parking lot. Yikes!

Weather: 42 deg, Mostly Clear Skies

Conditions: Waist to Shoulder High, Bumpy, Swamped, Closey-outy

Waves Caught: Big Zero

Sea Life: Dolphin (1), White Shark (1)
Sea Temp: 57 deg

Entry 099 - Second Time's a Charm

Finally a somewhat decent day for the 9' Stewart. Headed out this morning before work to check out the swell and it was mostly closed out with a few corners here and there. Did see 2 dolphins surf the waves though (always cool)! After sitting in the parking lot for 15 minutes decided to give it a while and try again at lunchtime - which I did.

The noon session turned out pretty well. With the dramatic water temperature change since the first, I decked out in everything and it paid off - everyone else just looked cold. The sets were still pretty closed out but I was able to pick off a few short rides before calling it a day. Dried off and then went to Soul Performance to pick up my new 8' high performance egg. Thanks, Mark! Can't wait to get it in the water!

Weather: 65 deg, Mostly Clear Skies

Conditions: Waist to Shoulder High, Textured, Closey-Outey, Inconsistent

Waves Caught: 7

Sea Life: Dolphin (2)
Sea Temp: 58 deg

Entry 098 - Crowded After Swell

First day of December and it feels like July! After the Thanksgiving swell that came into Porto bringing 8-9 ft faces which pretty much walled-up, I finally got a chance to get back into the water today before another swell comes tomorrow. Waves were just so-so today and the crowd was pretty big. I didn't head out for dawn patrol because the high tide seemed to swamp everything out. As the tide settled the surf looked better so I got permission for a little later session. Caught two nice rights and two nice lefts mixed with some other shorter stuff. The work on my S-turns is starting to show too - even if they are wide.

Weather: 75 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Glassy, Kinda Weak

Waves Caught: 9

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 62 deg