Entry 197 - Small Again

Everything got small and crumbly all of the sudden. Had to pull out the Stewart. Got in a nice long session before work today and needed it. I'm stressed out. Water's still warm!

Weather: 64 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Crumbly, Glassy

Waves Caught: 11

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 71 deg

Entry 196 - Warm Water October

Made it out for dawn patrol this morning at 6:30! Saw a beautiful sunrise and caught a couple of nice rides. Lots of swampy, bumpy, mushy stuff and the crowd made for some frustrating sets. Beautiful morning though. The summer continues!!!

Weather: 64 deg, Scattered Clouds

Conditions: Thigh to Chest High, Mushy, Bumpy, Crowded

Waves Caught: 4

Sea Life: Dolphin (1)
Sea Temp: 70 deg

Entry 195 - Lunch Session

Wanted to get out early this morning but had a meeting... which no one told me was cancelled! After getting a little work done, headed out for a lunchtime session.  Wasn't as good as yesterday but still worth getting out. Crowds just like the last few days. I think it's the warm water!

Weather: 69 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Waist to Shoulder High, Mushy, Glassy, Fun

Waves Caught: 1

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 70 deg

Entry 194 - Left, Right, In

Looked big from the parking lot today but I hadn't been out in 6 days and the ocean was calling. Paddled out pretty quickly in the nice warm water and really only had about 40 min to catch a couple before work. Caught a nice big left that washy mushy and then a right before heading running back to the car to avoid a ticket. Wish I could have stayed out longer! :(

Weather: 64 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Shoulder to Head High, Mushy, Glassy, Fun

Waves Caught: 2

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 70 deg

Entry 193 - Manhattan Beach

Woke up and watched the Porto surf cam for 15-20 min trying to decide if I should head out. It just looked too swampy. About 10 past 7 I bit the bullet and got in the car. By the time I arrived the parking lot was full and the surf looked pretty good. "Oh, well," I said, "let's check out Manhattan Pier." I'd never surfed Manhattan Pier but today was a good day to try. Got there, parked on the south side, put on wetsuit, and paddled out. Yes, pretty swampy! Caught one nice right and a so-so left. I'll be back.

Weather: 61 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Waist to Shoulder Plus High, Clear, Swampy

Waves Caught: 2

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 70 deg

Entry 192 - Walls

Got out to walls today but I brought the right board - my Brog Egg. Caught one nice left that ended up a little mushy and then a right that I was probably the biggest one I've caught to date - a little over shoulder high. Nice quick ride and the Egg handled it well. Glad I went out even though it looked bigger than I could handle at first.

Weather: 64 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Waist to Shoulder Plus High, Clear, Walled, Closeouts

Waves Caught: 3

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 70 deg

Entry 191 - Quick Pre-work Session

No Pic Today

Really quick session today. Surf was smaller with longer waits. Caught one nice right before heading into work.

Weather: 67 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Clear, Fat, Fun

Waves Caught: 3

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 71 deg

Entry 190 - Blood Moon

Had to get out this morning even though the tide was huge (6.1'). Sets would get fat on the outside, build up, and break at the beach which made for some fun rides. By the time the curl started to form, I had to pop off the wave to avoid slamming into the beach. One nice right and a nice left made for a good start to the workday.

Weather: 65 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Knee to Wait High, Clear, Fast, Fun

Waves Caught: 7

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 71 deg

Entry 189 - Not As Good As Yesterday

Not as good as yesterday but then again I might have been tired from Disneyland. Caught one, lone wave to end my session full of kids and Costco boards. Note to self, don't go to Hermosa on weekends to surf unless you want to teach someone.

Weather: 84 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Knee High, Bumpy, Clear, Closey-Outey

Waves Caught: 1

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 70 deg

Entry 188 - Trunkin' It

Waited around today because dawn patrol at Porto just didn't look that great - still have a lot of backwash. I was rewarded in the afternoon with continued glassy conditions and since my wife wanted to go down to Hermosa Pier to takes pictures of her latest surfboard painting (fantastic), I was able to get in a quick session by the pier. First time surfing Hermosa Pier and first time I decided to trunk it! Felt good after the initial deep breath from the cold water. Caught two so-so rights on the south side of the pier.

Weather: 87 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Glassy-to-Bumpy, Clear

Waves Caught: 4

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 69 deg

Entry 187 - Good But No Luck

Pulled the Brog egg out. Thought I'd try it out now that I've had a few days of good surf. Yep, still different. Beautiful and glassy at Porto today but the backwash made it difficult to catch anything good. Oh well, still nice to get out.

Weather: 67 deg, Cloudy

Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Glassy, Clear

Waves Caught: 2

Sea Life: Dolphin (7)
Sea Temp: 70 deg