Saturday, October 4, 2014

Entry 188 - Trunkin' It


Waited around today because dawn patrol at Porto just didn't look that great - still have a lot of backwash. I was rewarded in the afternoon with continued glassy conditions and since my wife wanted to go down to Hermosa Pier to takes pictures of her latest surfboard painting (fantastic), I was able to get in a quick session by the pier. First time surfing Hermosa Pier and first time I decided to trunk it! Felt good after the initial deep breath from the cold water. Caught two so-so rights on the south side of the pier.


Weather: 87 deg, Clear Skies
Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Glassy-to-Bumpy, Clear
Waves Caught: 4
Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 69 deg


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