Saturday, May 4, 2013

Entry 023 - Choppy



That strong current was still there today but it had back off just a bit so I didn't go as far.  Bumpy to start off the morning then turned to choppy and windy.  I was able to take off on a few good ones before I called it a morning and paddled back in.  The surf wasn't as steep as it was yesterday but the chop just made it hard to catch and hold anything most of the time.  The dolphins were having fun though and I saw a pod of them including one that literally swam under my board.  For a second I was thinking how good the GoPro footage would be if he surfaced next to me.  Fun morning even with the chop and wind.  Oh, and no rashguard today - just the 3/2.


Weather: 63 deg, Clear Skies to Cloudy and Windy
Conditions: Bumpy to Choppy, Inconsistent, Longshore Current, Small Crowd
Waves Caught: 7
Sea Life: Sea Lions (1), Dolphins (4)
Sea Temp: 61 deg

Friday, May 3, 2013

Entry 022 - Jumbled or Steep?


Yep, thought it was gonna be a good day but the current was nuts. Started at 40th and ended up in front of the Chevron plant.  Water was nice though and I'm thinking its almost time to ditch the booties and gloves.  Went with new earplugs today and they worked out great.  The surf started out jumbled, inconsistent and steep but as low tide approached, things got a little better - or maybe it was just my eventual location.  Either way, caught two nice ones and almost handled to should-head high waves but I couldn't get the board moving they way I wanted.  When things are steep at Porto, the 9' Stewart just doesn't cut it.


Weather: 64 deg, Clear Skies and Getting Warm!
Conditions: Bumpy, Inconsistent, Steep, Longshore Current
Waves Caught: 3
Sea Life: Sea Lions (2), Dolphins (3)
Sea Temp: 61 deg

Wednesday, May 1, 2013

Entry 021 - Steep



After looking at the El Porto surf yesterday and seeing pretty much flat seas, I bet on today and didn't have much luck.  While the swell was showing more than yesterday, the tide was going out and the waves were steep.  That, and the current was pretty heavy.  Everyone was paddling south in between sets.  Made for good exercise but not very good surfing conditions for the longboard.  I'm convinced that I've got to get something a tad smaller in my quiver - say 7'6".  Total for the day was one okay ride and a few halvies.


Weather: 60 deg, Cloudy Skies
Conditions: Glassy, Inconsistent, Steep, Longshore Current
Waves Caught: 2
Sea Life: None
Sea Temp: 59 deg