Entry 138 - Should Have Gone Out Yesterday

Small, mushy, and bumpy. I might have had the right board (8' Egg) but I just had very little luck. Good to get out, one okay right, and that was it. Bleh!

Weather: 64 deg, Cloudy

Conditions: Knee to Chest High, Inconsistent, Mushy, Closeouts on Occasion

Waves Caught: 1

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 66 deg

Entry 137 - Backwash Part 2

More backwash today but still just as glassy as yesterday. Some fun rides early and then as high tide set in, the sets got slow. Probably could have brought out the egg today given how some of the sets seemed to wall up or closeout at times but I still had fun on the Stewart. A nice left, a nice right, and then a short right that barreled me - might have been the backwash!

Weather: 65 deg, Partly Cloudy

Conditions: Knee to Chest High, Glassy, Inconsistent, Backwash!

Waves Caught: 3

Sea Life: Dolphin (1)
Sea Temp: 63 deg

Entry 136 - Backwash!

Epic backwash today! Fun but kinda frustrating when your paddling for a nice one and it gets washed out back the backwash. Sometimes the waves going out were bigger than the ones coming in! Spectacular to watch in the lineup though. My eye caught a spectacular display on a paddle out - 5-10 ft wall of "glass"! Caught 3 memorable lefts along with some small stuff to start off a beautiful Memorial Day.

Thank you to all of the men and women who have made and continue to make our freedom possible.

Weather: 63 deg, Partly Cloudy

Conditions: Knee to Chest High, Glassy, Inconsistent, Backwash!

Waves Caught: 9

Sea Life: Seal (1, dead)
Sea Temp: 64 deg

Entry 135 - Party Waves

High tide for dawn patrol and not much to rave about. The Saturday morning crowd was lively and friendly and I think the Memorial Day weekend added to the joy everyone was feeling. Cloudy sky was nice paired with the warm water. Sure, didn't catch much but still a fun time overall. Every wave was pretty much a party wave!

Weather: 63 deg, Cloudy

Conditions: Ankle to Waist High, Textured, Inconsistent

Waves Caught: 3

Sea Life: Dolphin (4)
Sea Temp: 62 deg

Entry 134 - Bumpy and Funky

Not as big as yesterday but still kinda funky. Longshore current and bumpy, weak sets coming in that had a tendency to wall up made for very little wave catching and short rides when something looked good. Like the surf last week much better. Still, I told myself in the parking lot that I just wanted to get out and paddle on the new board to get the hang of it. Well, I did. Hoping the weekend shapes up to be a little better.

Weather: 60 deg, Stormy Looking

Conditions: Knee to Chest High, Textured, Closey-Outy

Waves Caught: 1

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 62 deg

Entry 133 - Closeouts and Currents

Had to get out today even though it all looked steep and closed out during low tide. Current was pretty strong going north too. It's definitely more of a workout paddling the Egg out. Caught one short one like everyone else and then called it a session after trying for a few more only to get blasted by closeouts coming in. With the bigger swell, low tide, and sandbar pretty far out, I just couldn't get into my groove. Still good to get out. Looking forward to the holiday weekend.

Weather: 60 deg, Partly Cloudy

Conditions: Waist to Shoulder High, Textured, Closey-Outy

Waves Caught: 1

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 62 deg

Entry 132 - Fog Rolls In

Dawn patrol this morning at low tide was less than I was hoping for. Took the 8' Egg out and caught a couple of short rides. Not sure if I'm just still getting used to the egg or if the surf wasn't that great. But, judging from what everyone else was saying in the lineup, it was probably 50/50. Still good to get in the water.

Fog rolled in about midway through the session and the air got a lot cooler than I had expected. I'd say the heat wave must be over but I doubt it.

Weather: 63 deg, Sunny then Foggy

Conditions: Knee to Chest High, Textured, Closey-Outy

Waves Caught: 3

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 62 deg

Entry 131 - More Fun

Starting to cool down today. Headed out a little later and the sand bar at 42nd was still hopping. It's been a good spot these past few days and with the swell starting to come more from the SSW, the sets were a little better than the last two days. Fun stuff. A couple of nice long lefts and rights today on a short session that I wish would have lasted another hour or two. Looking forward to what Saturday's dawn patrol brings with the low tide being around -1ft.

Here's to summer!!!

Weather: 76 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Glassy, Crumbly

Waves Caught: 7

Sea Life: White Shark (1)
Sea Temp: 62 deg

Entry 130 - What Lurks Beneath

More heat today so I got out early to find the 6' white shark lurking just 10' away from me under the water. Makes you feel alive. Then the lineup was blessed with at least 7 dolphin jumping and playing in the water within 5-10' of everyone. I swear, I could have reached out and touched them. I really think they were trying to play with us! Ride of the day was a nice long (10+ sec) left that I rode as far into the shore as I could get. What a start to almost the weekend!

Weather: 74 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Ankle to Waist High, Glassy, Crumbly

Waves Caught: 5

Sea Life: Dolphin (7, arms reach), White Shark (1)
Sea Temp: 62 deg

Entry 129 - Hot Day

Santa Ana's in force today with high's in the 90s. Great day to get in the water - even if it looked like a lake from the parking lot. Lots of ankle biters with a few rideable sets that came in as the tide built up in the morning. Well worth getting out just to get in the cool water. Would have been nice to have some larger stuff but beggars can't be choosers. On the whole, 2 nice rights and a couple of crumbly lefts before heading in to work.

Weather: 73 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Ankle to Waist High, Glassy, Crumbly

Waves Caught: 5

Sea Life: Dolphin (3)
Sea Temp: 62 deg

Entry 128 - Dolphins Are Awesome

What a beautiful day to be in the water. If only I didn't have a morning meeting. Swell was pretty small and crumbly but there was a nice sandbar at 42nd St. which everyone was on. It was like 405 traffic though. Had to keep an eye out for the folks sitting on the inside - kinda frustrating. Probably could have caught at least 3-4 more nice rights if the inside had been clear. Two nice rights got me stoked today and the dolphin surfing on a nice set while I was getting ready to leave was icing on the cake!

Weather: 68 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Textured, Crumbly

Waves Caught: 4

Sea Life: Dolphin (5, surfing and jumping the waves!)
Sea Temp: 60 deg

Entry 127 - Small and Breezy

Small, crumbly stuff today with the breeze turning onshore. Caught a nice left and a right before heading in to. A little bigger and I think it would have been more fun (and probably more crowded). Let's see what the weekend brings.

Weather: 59 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Textured, Crumbly

Waves Caught: 3

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 59 deg

Entry 126 - Quick Session

Woke up early enough for a quick session before work 'cause of a busy day. Not much to rave about. Sets were more consistent than on Saturday but were slightly more dumpy and closed out. Still fun though. Caught 2 nice lefts before heading back in to start the week.

Weather: 60 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Knee to Chest High, Glassy, Clean, Textured

Waves Caught: 2

Sea Life: Dolphin (2)
Sea Temp: 61 deg

Entry 125 - Fun Saturday

Not too cold today! Water was warmer and the breeze wasn't as strong as yesterday making it slightly more pleasant out there. Surf was still pretty flat but fun and crowded. I seem to be getting back into my stride from the long winter of colds, travel, and surf that just wasn't my speed. Good to see everyone again, too. Lots of paddling in the short stuff but I ended up with a few nice ones for the morning with short stuff scattered in between.

Weather: 64 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Ankle to Waist High, Glassy, Clean, Crowded

Waves Caught: 8

Sea Life: Dolphin (3)
Sea Temp: 61 deg

Entry 124 - Cold!?

Beautiful day today and warm! Not for the water! It was definitely below 60 in the water. Just not sure how much. I'm going with 59 deg. The surf report says it's 62 deg but I think that's the buoy reading outside the bay. Pretty inconsistent just after a -0.3 ft low tide with small stuff maybe reaching to the waist. Fun though and not too crowded. Plenty of dolphin the water too and pretty close (in between surfers) to the lineup. Saw the 6 ft great white's shadow in the water today. Let's see what dawn patrol brings tomorrow.

Weather: 72 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Glassy, Inconsistent, Cold, Clean

Waves Caught: 4

Sea Life: Dolphin (6), White Shark (1)
Sea Temp: 59 deg