Entry 163 - Back in LA

Back in LA and the surf the past few days has been small to crazy flat and weak. No sense in going out until today and, even then, everything was a bit mixed up and the kelp was everywhere on the inside.  Still caught 5 nice ones (mostly lefts) and had to make it a short session. Great to be back in the cooler water too! (Can't believe I typed that.)

Weather: 70 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Mushy, Bumpy, Mixed Up

Waves Caught: 5

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 69 deg

Entry 162 - Another Day in Paradise

Yep, another day in paradise and not looking forward to going back to LA on Saturday. Got in this one last surf session and I'm apparently just missing a new swell that is going to be building starting over the weekend. Got my fair share of lefts today dodging the surf schools. Next time we're out in Maui I've got to find a nice right. Maybe further down toward Oluwalu. I can't complain though, any day in Maui surfing is a good day!

Weather: 90 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Ankle to Knee High, Clear, Mushy, Long Periods

Waves Caught: 10

Sea Life: Just Tropical Fish
Sea Temp: 80 deg

Entry 161 - Sore Shoulder

My right shoulder was sore today and I think it was from the GoPro wrist mount. Just not used to it. A lot sunnier today and more mushy surf due to the lower tide. Still fun though and saw the same folks in the lineup as I did yesterday - including the surf instructors and battalion of students learning to ride their first waves. I still remember that. Whenever I see one of them pop-up and catch something for the first time I know they're hooked. Only a few more days left on the island and I'll miss it until September!

Weather: 90 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Clear, Textured, Mushy, Fun

Waves Caught: 11

Sea Life: Just Tropical Fish
Sea Temp: 80 deg

Entry 160 - No Big Island

Went to the Big Island this year in Hawaii for the first 5 days of our vacation but got no surfing in due to the bad weather and choppy seas. Maui was a better story though after the tropical depression moved on up north of the island and made for some better conditions. One of these days I'll decide to venture out further than Lahaina Harbor but it's just so much fun and super convenient. Man, I love the water here!

Weather: 90 deg, Partly Cloudy

Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Clear, Textured, Mushy, Fun

Waves Caught: 14

Sea Life: Just Tropical Fish
Sea Temp: 80 deg

Entry 159 - Surfer Surprise!

Freakin' awesome today!! The surf was just so-so but the dolphin were having a blast and a juvenile popped up right next to my board when I wasn't looking! Caught plenty of short stuff and a nice long left and one nice long right. Fun, no crowd, and a great way to get ready for Hawaii.

Weather: 68 deg, Cloudy

Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Clear, Glassy, Mushy, Fun

Waves Caught: 13

Sea Life: Dolphin (6+, and one right next to my board)
Sea Temp: 71 deg

Entry 158 - Dolphins!

A lot more fun than yesterday and what made it even better was the pod of 12+ dolphin including juveniles splashing and playing close to the lineup. One of the juveniles was having so much fun it was jumping out of the water. What an amazing sight! No matter how many times I see dolphin out in the surf it never gets old. As far as the surfing was concerned, still a little dumpy with short rides and waves that doubled up on the inside. Might get better tomorrow but I caught my fair share today with a nice right to make it worth it besides the dolphins!

Weather: 68 deg, Partly Cloudy

Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Bumpy, Dumpy

Waves Caught: 6

Sea Life: Dolphin (12+)
Sea Temp: 71 deg

Entry 157 - Leaky Suit

Tried out my wetsuit that I haven't worn in over a year to see how I would fair in the hotter weather. Pleasantly surprised when I got in and felt the cool water leaking through the seams! Slightly unexpected but refreshing. The surf - not so much. Southern swell just passing by Porto leaving only walled up, closed out surfing conditions that were inconsistent at best. Caught my one wave on a short session and headed to work.

Weather: 69 deg, Clear Skies and Sunny

Conditions: Knee to Chest High, Glassy, Walled Up, Closeouts

Waves Caught: 1

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 71 deg

Entry 156 - The 7AM Lull

Folks were talking about it yesterday but I didn't notice - until today. That's right - the 7 AM lull in the swell. I swear it was flat for like 30-45 min between 7:15 and 8:00. Caught a few nice lefts before 7:15 and the some 2 nice rights after 8:00 but everything in between just seemed to peter out as it got closer to shore. Was kicking myself though one one nice right that I just couldn't get up on. Would have been beautiful. Oh well, still good to get out, especially on a clear morning!!

Weather: 67 deg, Clear Skies and Sunny

Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Glassy, Crumbly, Fun, Crowded

Waves Caught: 6

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 68 deg

Entry 155 - Happy Independence Day!

Happy 4th of July! Got out for an early morning session (6:30) and it was well worth it. Though the crowds started to get thicker, the surf was a little bigger than yesterday and it was nice and glassy. Every once in a while the breeze would pick up and create some texture but nothing that could ruin the stoke. Lots of party waves and almost two collisions but I've gotten better at having a little more fine control over my board so I was able to avoid pretty nicely. Got the GoPro back out too (on a wrist strap). Getting ready for Hawaii next weekend!

Weather: 65 deg, Cloudy

Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Glassy, Fun, Crowded

Waves Caught: 13

Sea Life: Dolphin (3)
Sea Temp: 68 deg

Entry 154 - Small and Fun

A little better this morning but still slightly small and inconsistent. Hoping tomorrow gets better for the 4th. Anyway, still good to get out.

Weather: 65 deg, Cloudy

Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Inconsistent, Bumpy

Waves Caught: 6

Sea Life: Dolphin (4)
Sea Temp: 68 deg

Entry 153 - Getting Smaller

No Pic Today

Looked a lot better than yesterday - less windy and more glassy but smaller. Caught some so-so stuff and a nice long right that I was able to ride up and down to shore. Fun crowd but still pretty thick with lots of kooks in the lineup. No worries, I still consider myself a bit of a kook as well. We're all out there to have fun anyway.

Weather: 65 deg, Cloudy

Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Inconsistent, Glassy

Waves Caught: 8

Sea Life: Dolphin (8)
Sea Temp: 68 deg