Entry 072 - Shortboarder's Day

Figured this morning would have some size to it based on the reports I was seeing during the week. I was right and the shortboarders were out in force all up on the inside and snaggin' any wave they could get. I swear that I must have been dropped in on or railroaded out of a nice wave at least 4 times. Not cool but, then again, it has been pretty small the last few weeks so it's hard to blame them. Overall the session was good today and everything I was catching I could ride for a good 10-15 secs before having to hop off. This included 2 really nice lefts and a so-so right. Good day.

Weather: 75 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Bumpy, Knee to Chest High, Mixed, Crowded

Waves Caught: 6

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 67 deg

Entry 071 - Smaller But Still Fun

While the waves weren't as nice as they were over the weekend, it was still worth it to get out again this morning before work - as always. Definitely not as crowded either which was a huge plus. Size was smaller than the weekend but the shape was similar with the bigger stuff walling up on the inside making it hard to catch and ride them down the line. The water was warmer too but I know there is a northwest swell building toward the middle of the week which is gonna drop the water temp into the "cold enough to feel it" zone. Don't know if I'm gonna have time to enjoy the surf later this week so it was good to get out today.

Weather: 74 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Textured, Clear, Knee to Waist High, Inconsistent, Fun

Waves Caught: 7

Sea Life: Dolphin (3 plus a pod!)
Sea Temp: 66 deg

Entry 070 - Labor Day Surf

Great start to a Labor Day! While the surf wasn't as good as Saturday, it was still well worth it. Little smaller but as the tide pushed in, things got more fun. Right when I got out into the lineup I caught two nice lefts and then had to wait a bit for the next good set to roll in. The dolphins were out in force today as well. I saw two pretty big pods with the little ones jumping out of the water at least 3-4 ft - just awesome! As my session was just about winding down, I caught two really memorable lefts that took me all the way into the beach and a nice right that almost barreled for me before ripping the board right out from under my legs. Great way to end a session. Lots of fun and great crowd as usual!

Weather: 66 deg, Foggy

Conditions: Textured, Clear, Knee to Chest High, Fun

Waves Caught: 10

Sea Life: Dolphin (Tons!)
Sea Temp: 65 deg