Entry 077 - Closeouts

Had to get out today because it's been a crazy week. Wasn't rewarded with much of anything. Long lines that were mostly closeouts or too steep to get anything nice on the long board. Found myself at the top of a couple of walls before backing off. The water is definitely getting colder too. Overall a really bleh day with short rides.

Weather: 65 deg, Partly Cloudy

Conditions: Textured, Cool Air, Mostly Closeouts

Waves Caught: 5

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 63 deg

Entry 076 - Be Patient

Woke up this morning at 6:30 before the sun rose and checked the surf report and cams. On word, "lake", and nobody out. There was nothing so I decided to fall back asleep and enjoy it. But something kept making me check the cameras and I'm glad I did. At around 7:15 things started to pick up and look decent (2-3') so I got the gear on the car and headed to Porto. By the time I got there the parking lot was packed and everyone was heading for the beach. Like always, good crowd and nobody out to catch every wave they saw. Caught three party waves with folks and a couple of others that needed some extra kicks to keep the ride going. Of the hour and a half I was out there, there was only one set that came in that was head high - and it was outta nowhere. Cleared out the lineup but nobody got a good ride. Overall fun time but still small.

Weather: 64 deg, Partly Cloudy

Conditions: Glassy, Knee-Waist High, Fun, Clean

Waves Caught: 15

Sea Life: Dolphin (3, surfing!)
Sea Temp: 66 deg

Entry 075 - Worth The Wait!

Oh, hell, yeah! What a beautiful morning! The sea was glassy and clean with just a touch of wind early on to keep things cool on the water. Everything was breaking just right and even nothing was really walling off. It was the best session I've had all year, hands down. Caught just as many lefts as rights and even caught a nice big one way on the outside that I almost held all the way in but got a little too far ahead of it. The shot of the day says it all - nice and glassy!

Oh, and got my GoPro back up and running just in time too!

Weather: 64 deg, Partly Cloudy

Conditions: Glassy, Waist-Shoulder High, Fun, Clean

Waves Caught: 12

Sea Life: Dolphin (3, surfing!)
Sea Temp: 65 deg

Entry 074 - Steep

Just had to get out today with being on travel during the week and everything else going on this weekend. Probably not the best day. The surf was steep and closey-outy most of the session except for a two nice ones I caught that were closer to the inside. After ducking two walls on my way out the last time, I decided to take one more in and start the day. Hopefully, I'll be able to get out during the week sometime.

Weather: 64 deg, Foggy

Conditions: Glassy, Crowded, Chest-Shoulder High Plus, Steep

Waves Caught: 3

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 64 deg

Entry 073 - Last Days of Summer

Photo compliments of Swell Magnet El Porto Cam

A little smaller today and more fun than yesterday even though the crowds were out in force. Got some really nice lefts that I could ride all the way in. The lineup was much friendlier today than yesterday too. The shortboarders were still out there but with more longboarders and it being the weekend I think everyone was more relaxed and taking their time. Best wave of the day was a chest high one that I almost had but my board slipped out from under me - darnit!

Weather: 67 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Glassy, Crowded, Knee to Chest High, Cold Spots

Waves Caught: 10

Sea Life: Sand Shark (1)
Sea Temp: 68 deg

Entry 072 - Shortboarder's Day

Figured this morning would have some size to it based on the reports I was seeing during the week. I was right and the shortboarders were out in force all up on the inside and snaggin' any wave they could get. I swear that I must have been dropped in on or railroaded out of a nice wave at least 4 times. Not cool but, then again, it has been pretty small the last few weeks so it's hard to blame them. Overall the session was good today and everything I was catching I could ride for a good 10-15 secs before having to hop off. This included 2 really nice lefts and a so-so right. Good day.

Weather: 75 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Bumpy, Knee to Chest High, Mixed, Crowded

Waves Caught: 6

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 67 deg

Entry 071 - Smaller But Still Fun

While the waves weren't as nice as they were over the weekend, it was still worth it to get out again this morning before work - as always. Definitely not as crowded either which was a huge plus. Size was smaller than the weekend but the shape was similar with the bigger stuff walling up on the inside making it hard to catch and ride them down the line. The water was warmer too but I know there is a northwest swell building toward the middle of the week which is gonna drop the water temp into the "cold enough to feel it" zone. Don't know if I'm gonna have time to enjoy the surf later this week so it was good to get out today.

Weather: 74 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Textured, Clear, Knee to Waist High, Inconsistent, Fun

Waves Caught: 7

Sea Life: Dolphin (3 plus a pod!)
Sea Temp: 66 deg

Entry 070 - Labor Day Surf

Great start to a Labor Day! While the surf wasn't as good as Saturday, it was still well worth it. Little smaller but as the tide pushed in, things got more fun. Right when I got out into the lineup I caught two nice lefts and then had to wait a bit for the next good set to roll in. The dolphins were out in force today as well. I saw two pretty big pods with the little ones jumping out of the water at least 3-4 ft - just awesome! As my session was just about winding down, I caught two really memorable lefts that took me all the way into the beach and a nice right that almost barreled for me before ripping the board right out from under my legs. Great way to end a session. Lots of fun and great crowd as usual!

Weather: 66 deg, Foggy

Conditions: Textured, Clear, Knee to Chest High, Fun

Waves Caught: 10

Sea Life: Dolphin (Tons!)
Sea Temp: 65 deg