Entry 059 - Lahaina Breakwater (Part 2)

Woke up early this morning to catch some waves before Flossie comes through. I'm glad I did because by 10 AM the rain started and the seas turned white-capped. The 8'2" had a cheap GoPro mount on the front so I used it today instead of the wrist mount (which I think I'll return to REI - not very good). The waves were much cleaner and glassier this morning as opposed to yesterday. Locals were out in force with only a couple of tourists including myself. Caught 3 nice lefts and almost had a fourth but fell popping up. The 8'2" Boss Frog Epoxy board makes it harder to catch soft surf. After the storm blows through I'm hoping to get a 9' epoxy for later in the week. Still, I had a really fun time and the view was fantastic!

Weather: 82 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Clean, Knee-Chest High, Soft, Medium Periods

Waves Caught: 4

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 80 deg

Entry 058 - Lahaina Breakwater (Part 1)

Left Kaua'i the other day for Maui and some nicer surf. Got a little better before the Tropical Storm Flossie hits tomorrow. Rode an 8'2" from Boss Frogs and caught a few nice ones. Crowd was mainly locals since the inside was pretty much flat. The 8'2" was an epoxy board much nicer than the soft top I rented in Kaua'i. Rode more like my 9' Stewart but more sporty. I wished the center fin was a little longer but I had a good session overall.

Weather: 82 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Clean, Knee-Chest High, Soft, Long Periods

Waves Caught: 4

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 80 deg

Entry 057 - Surfin' Po'ipu

In Kaua'i on vacation and grabbed on 8' soft top to catch a few waves at Po'ipu (south shore). Note to self - wearing a rashguard on an unwaxed soft top board is very slippery in the ocean. I should have gone with a performance board and waxed it up but I only had about an hour and a half to get a session in before dinner. The surf around Po'ipu was choppy, windy, and mixed up. Some of the locals said that further west things would be a little better but I didn't see that as me and the family were driving the past few days. Pretty easy paddle out to an okay left by an exposed reef and caught a nice short ride within the first 10 minutes. After that, no dice. Like I said, the surf was choppy and also weak. Still, well worth it to say I surfed in Kaua'i.

Weather: 82 deg, Patchy Clouds

Conditions: Choppy, Knee-Waist High, Mushy, Windy

Waves Caught: 3

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 80 deg (and why I'd move to Hawaii!)

Entry 056 - Started Out Glassy

Got back on the board today after giving my pinky toe a rest - pretty black and blue. All was well and the surf was nice a glassy when I paddled out. Caught two nice lefts before the chop started to build. I almost had a really nice right if it wasn't for the guys lined up on the inside. Kinda annoying especially after I paddled into two waves just to be faced with someone on the inside right in my line. Oh well, still caught some nice ones.

Weather: 66 deg, Overcast

Conditions: Bumpy, Knee-Chest High, Fun

Waves Caught: 6

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 67 deg

Entry 055 - Appendages

Good start to the session and then the windswell just started to be too much and everything turned choppy. Caught mostly lefts today with one nice long ride. Wish I would have gotten out earlier but I don't think it would have made a difference. I expect tomorrow will be about the same. Towards the end of my session I was trying to catch a couple closer to the inside but had little luck and the last one I stubbed my pinky toe nice and good - suspect I bent it back. At first I though I broke it but after a little examination to feel from broken bones, I've concluded it'll be okay. Taped it to my other toe and I'm hoping it will all be better by Sunday or Monday. Foot's pretty bruised on my pinky side though! Was it worth it for the surf today? Hard to say... but I think "yes" given the one nice ride I had.

Weather: 67 deg, Sunny and Warm

Conditions: Choppy, Knee-Waist High, Windswell, Mixed

Waves Caught: 6

Sea Life: Dolphins (2)
Sea Temp: 64 deg

Entry 054 - Fat and Mixed Up

I think I missed out on the good stuff yesterday cause today was mixed up. I was hoping for something a little better but I knew when I paddled out that the surf just wasn't gonna work with the 9' Stewart today. It was really a day for a shorter board like a 7'6" or 8'. Small little lines for the rideable ones followed by closeouts and some walls. Toll for the day was two short lefts and a semi-long right that made the short session worth it. Call me picky.

Weather: 66 deg, Sunny and Warm

Conditions: Glassy to Textured, Waist-Shoulder High, Corners, Little Fat

Waves Caught: 3

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 68 deg

Entry 053 - Small But Fun

Paddled out today after three days on the east coast and immediately caught 2 nice rights and a left. Was hoping it was going to stay that nice but no such luck. Got crowded early and the falling tide drained everything out pretty quickly. Still good to be out there though. Best ride of the morning was a nice long 10 sec right that took me right into a nice place to paddle back out. Overall - good day even if the tide and swell was a little mushy.

Weather: 64 deg, Cloudy

Conditions: Glassy to Textured, Knee-Waist High, Corners, Weak

Waves Caught: 6

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 67 deg

Entry 052 - Shark, Really

Highlight of today's session - 5 to 6 ft juvenile white shark spotted about 20 yards from me and another surfer. He/she was skimming along the top of the water where you could easily make out it's dorsal and tail fins. Even creepier was that I saw it a few minutes later as a shadow under the water  - still 20+ yards away. Other than that excitement, the surf was just so-so. Weak overall but I caught two nice rights.

Weather: 66 deg, Partly Cloudy

Conditions: Textured, Knee-Waist High, Corners, Weak

Waves Caught: 7

Sea Life: Reef Shark (1, 5-6')
Sea Temp: 69 deg

Entry 051 - Keep An Eye Outside

You never know when there's gonna be a big one coming right behind that nice wave you caught. Paddled out into the crowd again today but there seemed to be more people hanging on the inside. Really annoying. I was paddling into a really nice left when a shortboarder on the inside got right in front of me and started paddling. He even saw me going for it! Oh well, still an okay morning. The regulars were all out today and the crowd on the outside was, as usual, mellow and having fun. I, myself, caught a nice right and a nice left to begin a good week.

Weather: 64 deg, Cloudy

Conditions: Glassy, Knee-Chest High, Closeouts, Crowded

Waves Caught: 7

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 69 deg

Entry 050 - Nice and Warm

Not nearly as crowded as I was expecting today.  Nice and glassy but small; great for the longboard.  Paddled out and caught a short right and left before settling in and waiting for the next set.  Best ride of the day was a long right that I worked almost to the beach.  Final ride of the day was a little soft and I caught the peak and had a nice drop in.  Thought I saw that shark again today but learned otherwise.  Seems that there's been a juvenile dolphin in the waters the past week.  Notified the lifeguards but I don't think there is anything they can do.  Really sad.  Dumpy surf overall but with a few corners that paid off.

I think I'm now leaning toward a new board that's 7'6" or slightly longer that it'll let me dig in more.  Might not have helped out today but the Stewart rides a little high in the water.

Weather: 66 deg, Cloudy

Conditions: Glassy, Knee-Chest High, Dumpy

Waves Caught: 9

Sea Life: Dolphin (2, 1 Juvenile)
Sea Temp: 69 deg

Entry 049 - Pre-July 4th Surf

Yep, pre-July 4th surf today on a mushy small morning.  The groms were out in force though trying to catch anything and everything at Porto while hanging on the inside.  Kinda annoying but I still had a pretty good session. Caught two memorable waves that had some strength to them among the rest of the mushy surf.  Mostly, I was just happy to be in warmer water as compared to last week's frigid sessions.  July 4th isn't looking like a good day to go out but I think everything will pick back up over the weekend.

Weather: 64 deg, Cloudy

Conditions: Textured to Glassy, Knee-Chest High, Mushy

Waves Caught: 10

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 66 deg

Entry 048 - Slammed

Beautiful glassy day and much warmer water.  It was mid-tide and and the strong southwest swell was still giving Porto energy.  Most the rides were short as the sets often came in walled up.  Got caught by one and crushed pretty good.  Ripped the board right out of my hands as I tried to avoid the onslaught of water by paddling for shore.  Legs got tangled in the leash too - not fun.  The longshore current got an "A" for effort too!  Definitely a tiring day for the longboard.

Weather: 65 deg, Party Cloudy

Conditions: Glassy, Waist-Shoulder High, Walled, Strong Longshore Current

Waves Caught: 6

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 67 deg