Entry 103 - Finally

Getting the hang of the new board. Caught three so-so lefts today a midst the close outs and walls but, nonetheless, fun. The 8' Brog Egg is definitely looser than the 9' Stewart and requires me to pop up faster and know what to do next pretty quickly. I'm learning again which is great... just wish I could catch more. It'll take time, I know. Hopefully the weekend will be a good one!

Weather: 58 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Closed Out, Walled Up, Glassy

Waves Caught: 3

Sea Life: Seal (1)
Sea Temp: 59 deg

Entry 102 - Ah, Better...

First day in a while where the surf wasn't crazy big and walled! I was excited to get out and keep learning on the new board. Good surf overall with the mid-tide but it eventually just got too soft for me and I had to get back home. Friendly lineup and I caught one nice left that could have turned into something but I was riding it a bit too high. Still getting used to the board and finding my center. Good day to learn!

Weather: 45 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Waist to Chest High, Textured, Soft, Fun

Waves Caught: 1

Sea Life: Seal (1)
Sea Temp: 59 deg

Entry 101 - More Learning

Thought the surf was going to be manageable today and give me a chance to get some actual rides on the new 8' Egg. No luck. While the surf report said 2-3 ft faces yesterday, it was more like 4+ ft and walled up in most spots. The paddle out took time and the wind that blew in later in the session just made everything colder. I miss summer. Hopefully this Saturday will be better and I'll find some manageable surf to help me get used to the new board.

Weather: 55 deg, Slightly Foggy

Conditions: Shoulder to Head High, Textured, Walled Up

Waves Caught: Big Zero

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 58 deg

Entry 100 - New Board and Swampy

Yep, first time out on the new 8' Egg from Brog and didn't catch a single thing (except if you count a slight stand-up at one point. It wasn't the board, though it's going to take some getting use to, it was the swampy high tide and inconsistent surf. There were long lulls and then big closeouts that just came in and didn't leave anything to practice on. The short boarders were getting a few but overall everyone was paddling a lot.

So, the new board is definitely skinnier than the Stewart and looser. I can't wait to catch something good with it. For now, I'm looking forward to a rest from all the paddling. I just know I'm gonna feel sore today.

Last but not least, apparently the great white was out today and he breached two times. I didn't see it but I heard it from the guys in the parking lot. Yikes!

Weather: 42 deg, Mostly Clear Skies

Conditions: Waist to Shoulder High, Bumpy, Swamped, Closey-outy

Waves Caught: Big Zero

Sea Life: Dolphin (1), White Shark (1)
Sea Temp: 57 deg

Entry 099 - Second Time's a Charm

Finally a somewhat decent day for the 9' Stewart. Headed out this morning before work to check out the swell and it was mostly closed out with a few corners here and there. Did see 2 dolphins surf the waves though (always cool)! After sitting in the parking lot for 15 minutes decided to give it a while and try again at lunchtime - which I did.

The noon session turned out pretty well. With the dramatic water temperature change since the first, I decked out in everything and it paid off - everyone else just looked cold. The sets were still pretty closed out but I was able to pick off a few short rides before calling it a day. Dried off and then went to Soul Performance to pick up my new 8' high performance egg. Thanks, Mark! Can't wait to get it in the water!

Weather: 65 deg, Mostly Clear Skies

Conditions: Waist to Shoulder High, Textured, Closey-Outey, Inconsistent

Waves Caught: 7

Sea Life: Dolphin (2)
Sea Temp: 58 deg

Entry 098 - Crowded After Swell

First day of December and it feels like July! After the Thanksgiving swell that came into Porto bringing 8-9 ft faces which pretty much walled-up, I finally got a chance to get back into the water today before another swell comes tomorrow. Waves were just so-so today and the crowd was pretty big. I didn't head out for dawn patrol because the high tide seemed to swamp everything out. As the tide settled the surf looked better so I got permission for a little later session. Caught two nice rights and two nice lefts mixed with some other shorter stuff. The work on my S-turns is starting to show too - even if they are wide.

Weather: 75 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Knee to Waist High, Glassy, Kinda Weak

Waves Caught: 9

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 62 deg

Entry 097 - San O'

This past week has been crazy FLAT! It's like a freakin' lake out there. Instead of hanging around the South Bay, we (wife, daughter, and I) decided to take a trip to San O' the day before Thanksgiving. As it turned out, while the surf was still flat-ish, it was better than the rest of the South Bay. A few nice rights at The Point and some other mushy stuff. Old Man's was a shade better as the tide turned. Still, always a good time at San O'!

Weather: 65 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Weak, Knee to Waist High, Glassy

Waves Caught: 8

Sea Life: Dolphin (3)
Sea Temp: 62 deg

Entry 096 - Leftovers

Not many people out today and I could see why. The leftovers from the weekend swell were just so-so. Definitely long board material. Caught two nice lefts and a nice right with a bunch of short runs spread throughout. While the break was pretty close to shore, the 6' high tide helped keep the water pretty deep for the close in rides. Didn't see the shark today but the water was ripe for it - really clear. The rest of the first half of the week is suppose to be pretty small so I'm probably not gonna head out but we'll see.

Weather: 64 deg, Partly Cloudy Skies

Conditions: Weak, Knee to -Waist High, Glassy

Waves Caught: 9

Sea Life: Whale (1)
Sea Temp: 62 deg

Entry 095 - Parking Space?

Everyone was out today! The parking lot was packed and I was lucky to find something toward the end of the Porto lot. Honestly, I think everyone was hoping it was going to better than it turned out to be. While the swell was bigger, it was choppy, mixed up, and with it being a 6'+ high tide around 7 AM, I didn't think it was that great. But, then again, I was on the 9' Stewart which probably added to my frustration as I saw guys with the shorter boards catching the really nice rights that just kept coming in around 42nd St.

Weather: 68 deg, Partly Cloudy Skies

Conditions: Choppy, Waist to Shoulder High, Mixed Up

Waves Caught: 6

Sea Life: Dolphin (2)
Sea Temp: 63 deg

Entry 094 - Energy is Back

Yep, the energy is finally back and the lineup was packed. If I didn't know any better, I would have sworn it was a Saturday. While the swell was mainly out of the west, it wasn't too steep thanks to the high tide and the shape was nice. Didn't see anybody catching a ton of barrels but you could if you tried hard enough. Tide swing is getting pretty big too, so I know it's almost winter time. Overall, fun day once I fought past the traffic!

Weather: 64 deg, Cloudy Skies

Conditions: Glassy, Waist to Chest High, Nice Shape

Waves Caught: 8

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 62 deg

Entry 093 - Bumpy and Weak

Yucky day again. Just can't catch a break the past two weeks. Surf was all bumpy, no current making the water dirty, and the surf that did make it through was weak. Great for a paddle board but only marginal for the long board. A few folks on short boards were catching stuff but nothing worth bragging about. Suppose to be rainy tomorrow but I hope Saturday or Sunday "turns the tide" on these crappy past two weeks.

Weather: 65 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Bumpy, Knee to Waist High, Weak, Mixed Up

Waves Caught: 6

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 63 deg

Entry 092 - No Booties Yet

Got out early with the dawn patrol today but to not much of anything. Weak lines with the occasional waist high plus set that didn't have much shape. Still fun to be out in the early morning and see the regulars. For the session, I caught maybe 1 memorable right and 1 memorable left which I guess weren't that memorable since they're a "maybe".

On tap for the week... pretty much the same conditions through the first part of the week and then I think the forecast is for some better surf.

Weather: 57 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Glassy, Knee to Waist High, Weak, No Shape

Waves Caught: 13

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 63 deg

Entry 091 - Crowds

Another offshore breeze today but a little more textured and definitely colder water. The surf was smaller and weaker too. Same crowd out there today as yesterday with one group of surfers (obviously friends) that huddled in a crowd toward the inside and sat around a lot blocking the rest of us from trying to catch anything. Really kind of obnoxious. Spread out a little for heaven's sake! At least enough so that folks on the outside can weave through you sitting on the inside. [Rant over] Still caught two nice long rights and ended the session with a nice long left. Fun morning!

Weather: 64 deg, Skattered Clouds

Conditions: Textured, Knee to Waist High, Weak

Waves Caught: 9

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 62 deg

Entry 090 - Craziness

Nice offshore breeze today, warm (63 deg) warm water, and good swell brought everybody out today and, apparently, yesterday. Porto was pretty packed for it being close to 8 AM and I had to dodge a few folks on my way to catching some just so-so waves. The height was pretty inconsistent with lots of waiting and every once in a while paddling hard to avoid walled up double overhead sets that seemed to come out of nowhere and pound the shore for a couple of minutes. Fun overall though and I would have stayed longer if I didn't have a meeting to get to!

Weather: 64 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Textured, Waist to Shoulder High, Wally

Waves Caught: 8

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 63 deg

Entry 089 - Dawn Patrol

Beautiful fall morning! Water was warm and the air was crisp. Surf was so-so but still fun. Lots of closeouts and steep stuff but there were some workable corners here and there and I caught my fair share. Must have been some sort of military exercise too because around 7:45 we saw 4 Army or Marine choppers buzz over the water. Pretty cool. We all waved at each other. For the morning, I caught two memorable lefts and a nice right in between some other short stuff. Hope the water doesn't get too cold too soon!

Weather: 58 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Glassy, Knee to Chest High, Closey-Outy

Waves Caught: 14

Sea Life: Dolphin (3)
Sea Temp: 63 deg

Entry 088 - Funish Again!

Glad I got out today. Even though it was at high tide and a little textured, the surf and crowd was fun. Caught a really nice left and right about mid way through my session and would have stayed out longer if I didn't have to get in to work. Finally, some good surf after a pretty crappy past few days. Of course, being under the weather didn't help much either. The weekend is looking pretty good! Happy Halloween!

Weather: 57 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Textured, Knee to Waist High, Fun

Waves Caught: 7

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 63 deg

Entry 087 - Bleh

Another just ho-hum day. Swell is directly from the west and doesn't make for much of anything. Walls up most of the time and when not, it's just plain weak. The crowd doesn't help either and I think the flu shot I got yesterday is having some side effects (read "feeling kinda weak too"). Still, I just had to get out and see what the surf was like. Note to self, "West only swell doesn't make for much fun at Porto."

Weather: 59 deg, Foggy

Conditions: Bumpy, Weak, Dumpy, Knee to Chest High

Waves Caught: 4

Sea Life: Dolphin (2)
Sea Temp: 63 deg

Entry 086 - Yuck

Not a fun day on the water today. Looked better than yesterday but the rideable stuff was few and far between. Lots of walls and closeouts with not a lot of energy on the stuff that was rideable. I was extra surprised by the northward current with the swell being so small. You could actually watch yourself get swept north if you were anywhere near 44th St. Overall, like I said, "yuck", but then again, it's always good to get out.

Weather: 59 deg, Cloudy

Conditions: Bumpy, Wally, Waist to Chest High Plus

Waves Caught: 8ish

Sea Life: Dolphin (3)
Sea Temp: 64 deg

Entry 085 - Surfing Dolphins

Another beautiful morning but a little smaller and weaker than yesterday. Caught two really nice lefts that made it all worth it and saw dolphins surfing too after my session was all over! Should have stayed out a little longer to be in the lineup with them. Pretty darn awesome. Great long board day. Air is starting to get chillier as fall sets in.

Weather: 59 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Clear, Small, Knee to Thigh High Plus

Waves Caught: 9

Sea Life: Dolphin (6)
Sea Temp: 66 deg

Entry 084 - Crystal Clear

Crystal clear day today on the water and in the sky. Surf was a little small but workable and fun. Right out of the gate, I caught a nice right that I rode down the line for a bit. Not many folks out either which made it even nicer. The water was so clear you could see the ocean floor 7 - 8 ft down and I even spotted my first ray. No white shark though. I could swear I saw a couple of whales in the distance too. Beautiful!

Weather: 64 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Clear, Small, Dumpy, Knee to Thigh High Plus

Waves Caught: 10

Sea Life: Sting Ray (1), Whale (2?)
Sea Temp: 65 deg

Entry 083 - Small and Mushy

Beautiful this morning but the surf was a bit crappy - small, mushy, and inconsistent. I was hoping for better but I'll take what I can get on a Monday morning before work. Caught 2 decent knee-thigh high rights that I was able to ride down the line. Was also cut off by a shortboarder paddling a foot from me - probably just competitive but I was out to have fun, he could have it. Also saw the silhouette of a 5' shark under the water out there - I've heard someone spotted a mako shark so I'm not sure if it was a mako or the juvenile white shark. Either way - he didn't bother me, so  I wasn't going to bother him.

Weather: 61 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Clear, Mushy, Bumpy, Knee to Thigh High Plus

Waves Caught: 6

Sea Life: White Shark (1)
Sea Temp: 65 deg

Entry 082 - Mushy But Fun

Got out just as the sun rose this morning and met up with the same friendly crew. Sand and air was cold but the water was warm. Yep, it's fall. While the surf was overall mushy with inconsistent waist+ sets, it was still fun. Most of the waves I caught were pretty short down the line but I had two really nice rights.

Days end: Finished up a beautiful day back at the beach with my amazing wife and daughter at a wedding on the south side of Porto. Congrats, Brian and Gina!

Weather: 55 deg, Clear Skies

Conditions: Clear, Glassy, Mushy, Knee to Waist High Plus

Waves Caught: 13

Sea Life: Dolphin (1)
Sea Temp: 65 deg

Entry 081 - Too Polite

No Picture Today

Late start. Had to get out. Caught a few okay lefts and would have had a really nice one if the guy next to me and I hadn't been to polite to each other before dropping in - we both missed a nice ride - damn! Had a really nice right that made it all worth it today and calmed me down from a pretty stressful week.

Weather: 60 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Warbly, Knee to Waist High, Fun

Waves Caught: 5

Sea Life: Dolphin (3)
Sea Temp: 68 deg

Entry 080 - Cold Sand, Warm Water

Just a beautiful, crisp morning today. After a jog across the cold sand - is it winter? - got out into the lineup tight at sunrise. Kinda steep today and closed out in spots but there were sections and corners to pick off in the crowd. Of the ones I caught, I was only able to the bottom turn in on about 1/3rd of them before they closed out. Still a fun morning. Gotta get that 7'10" or 8' board for winter.

Weather: 60 deg, Cloudy and Drizzle

Conditions: Steep, Clear, Glassy, Closey-Outey

Waves Caught: 11

Sea Life: Dolphin (2)
Sea Temp: 66 deg

Entry 079 - In-n-Out

Needed to get out again today to practice against some larger swell - at least I thought. It was warbly at best with the waves coming in and going out from the beach. Clean though and the water was warm. Longshore current coming from the north was pushing everything south. Had to catch a bunch of lefts to have any chance of getting back to my car without jogging. Caught once nice long left during the session which made it fun. One another one, guy decided he wanted to be on camera and flipped me the bird - he should've been more creative.

Weather: 64 deg, Cloudy and Drizzle

Conditions: Crumbly, Clean, Knee to Waist High

Waves Caught: 7

Sea Life: Nothing
Sea Temp: 67 deg

Entry 078 - Kamikaze Seagull

Paddled out and was sitting in the lineup when a lone surfer on the outside almost got hit in the face by a seagull headed straight for him. He waved it off like he was swatting at a fly. Hilarious! Surf was a bit steep today but manageable. The surf report called for chest high surf and it definitely was but the high tide helped. Lots of closeouts in general and the paddle out was a workout. Had fun and enjoyed my first taste of fall surf and bigger swells. Still lookin' for the new board but I'm able to make due with the Stewart - I'm learning.

Weather: 63 deg, Sunny

Conditions: Glassy, Steep, Closeouts

Waves Caught: 5

Sea Life: Sand Shark (1)
Sea Temp: 67 deg